meowing-cat

The Meowing Sounds Of A Cat

Cats possess the widest range of vocalizations of any domestic pet next to birds. The meowing of a cat is almost exclusively used to communicate with humans and known to be the most heard cat sound. During kittenhood, mew (shorten version) is uttered by kittens in need of their mother. This juvenile vocalization fades away as cats mature into adulthood. Older cats often meow more because of failing senses or due to anxiety over not being as nimble as before.

The frequency of meowing is an indicator of a cat’s frame of mind. An insistent leg weaves, rapid-fire meows means she is excited to share something with you or requesting your attention to her. A longer, more plaintive meowing can indicate worry, annoyance, or objection to something. In general cats’ communication, meow usually mean “pay attention to me” and are employed when your cat wants something, either attention or food. It can also simply means “hello”.

Other common cats sounds are:

Chattering is a rapid clacking of the teeth sometimes heard when a cat is ready to pounce on prey. This sound is thought to be an indicator of a cat’s predatory excitement and of her stress at not being able to get to the prize.

Hissing is a defensive sound, usually accompanied by laid-back ears and sometimes by hair standing on end. Hissing depends very much upon the individual cat’s perception and level of comfort. Friendly felines hiss at each other to let them know something has made them unhappy.

Growling sometimes accompanies hissing, and is a sign of displeasure. It is often an indicative of fear, anger or territorial threat. Domestic cat’s growling are of a higher pitch and can start or end with a yowl.

Yowling (low-pitched) is a sign of discomfort or frustration. Cats who does not like to travel when put in her carrier can uttered low-pitched yowling sound.

Caterwauling is loud yowling  uttered by females in heat when calling out to prospective mates.

Screaming sound is often associated with the pain of the female cat experienced during the mating process. Cats in the midst of a fight may also scream.

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cat-fighting

Aggression Between Housemate Cats

Aggression between housemate cats comes in several forms, with associated causes. As cat owners, it behooves us when our cat pounces on his feline housemate or sibling, who counters with a paw in the face. Stalking, chasing, and sometimes roughhousing are common in multi-cat household. We need to fully understand these kinds of aggressive behavior so that we can take appropriate steps when needed.

Knowing the forms of aggression between cats, whether your cats are on guard or only playing by tuning into these behavioral clues.

Healthy play: Stalking, chasing, and pouncing are normal play. Such play-fighting usually starts at an early age with siblings. This starts with one kitten stalking the other, then pounce his unsuspecting prey. This turns around with trade off roles, with the victim chasing his former predator. The chase game is often a favorite in multi cat homes, including cats of all ages.  Play is generally quiet, though cats may hiss or make meowing sounds. Play-fighting is usually harmless fun, and intervention is only necessary when one cat is injure by accidental scratches or nips.

Foul play: Identifying by the sound and look of their interaction. You’ll hear wailing and howling, and one cat will act as a dominant force, intimidating the other. Each cat preface his attack with much posturing: back raised, ears laid back. They will not trade pounces or take turns chasing one another. Unlike healthy play-fighting is characterized by each cat’s offensive or defensive roles. After play, cats will act as friends, even curling up together for a nap. Fighting cats walk separate ways, one scared of the other.

If you must break up a cat fight, keep your hands away from the action. Never try to pick up a cat who is still in attack mode. Splash a glass of water directly on the aggressor’s face. Push a broom between the two cats to separate them. If cats are not yet making contact and are in the frozen position, hold a newspaper in front of them to block their view of each other. Ideally, the frightened cat will slink away and the aggressor will become calm enough for you to pick up and secure.

multi-cat

Maintaining A Multi-Cat Household

Multi-cat households can work well under the right circumstances.  A harmonious multi-cat household can also run into fair share of upsets at times. Cat siblings that have been brought up together can develop strong bonds and become best pals. Even so they still disagree sometimes aggressively. Then there are cat sibs that cannot be in the same room without hissing or instigating a fight.

In a multi-cat household, you need enough space to give each of your cats a place to call home. This means having plenty of snuggle spots, window perches, hideaways, and other in-demand cat locations so no one has to fight over who gets comfortable place to nap and view the outside world. Play the role of  a mother cat in charge of this big, happy cat family. Set some ground rules and take time to properly introduce new cats to the house. Watch for bullying, and know when to intervene if cat play turns into foul play.

There are few important factors that influence success for maintaining a sane household.

  1. Cats are territorial creatures. Some are clearly more territorial than others, so the time required for the introduction process varies greatly depending on the cats involved. A two-week introduction process with gradual, supervised “meetings” between new cat and the in-house crew eases stress for everyone.
  2. Accommodate cats’ need for space, privacy, and resources (litter, food, water).  Set two food bowls in the kitty eating area, and contain the dominant cat for a short time during mealtime if he scares away timid cats.
  3. Provide two (or more) litter boxes. A dominant cat may leave his waste uncovered to mark his territory. Some cats demand private litter boxes. Observe behavior and set up litter stations to accommodate everyone.
  4. Create territories with hideouts, cubbies. Cats need somewhere safe to rest, free from danger and interference, preferably off the ground.

My Cats Loves Cozy Hiding Places.

One aspect of environmental enrichment that is often misunderstood or overlooked is the need for the cat to have hiding places. Cats loves cozy hiding places, and they’re always seeking out new spots to nap. You should not get too worried if your kitty disappear for a while, she may have found a new secret hiding place where she can enjoy some privacy. If your cat misses mealtime or doesn’t respond to the rattle of her favorite toy after a couple of tries, she could be stuck somewhere or hiding out because she’s sick. That’s your clue to start scouring the house.

Cat hiding places can be created with things you already have around the house. Pay attention to whether your cat prefers to nap in an elevated location or on a mid-level as that will help you in terms of where to place the cozy napping hideaway. Here are some common hiding spots:

  • Behind doors
  • Inside boxes or bags
  • In the bathtub
  • In the spaces behind the drawer and the back panel of a chest of drawers
  • Under a dining table or a chair
  • On top of a cabinet or tall piece of furniture
  • Behind the toilet especially on a hot day
  • Inside a reclining chair mechanism
  • Under or behind large pieces of furniture, such as beds, sofas, armoires, and chests of drawers
  • Inside cabinets
  • Inside low drawers, especially those con-taining clothing or linens
  • Behind curtains
  • Under blankets or bedclothes
  • Under pillows on the bed or sofa

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Providing your cat with safe, suitable places to relax will assist in minimizing the chance they will find a place of their own. This is even more important in multi-pet families. Some hiding places can be dangerous. Always check inside the clothes dryer and other large appliances before closing the door and inside a reclining chair mechanism or sofa bed before closing it. If your cat goes outdoors in cold weather, always knock on the hood before start­ing the car; cats will sometimes crawl up into the engine compartment for warmth.

Communicating With Your Cat

Cats are known for their emotional opaqueness and standoffishness compared with dogs. Most owners may think their pets don’t seem interested in communicating with them, as long as the food arrives on time.

It is not too soon to speak with your cat, even it is your first day together. care. You will strengthen your bond between you and your cat when your start talking to her. Although Kitty lacks the muscle coordination to speak your language, she can learn to understand your words, just as you can learn her body signals for what she is trying to express. As long as you are consistent and using the same word, she will pick up these vocabulary  in no time.

You can start by beginning with some of these words

  1. Her name – Say it often; coo it, whisper it, and singsong it. Watch her perk up when she hears it. Test her by calling from a distance see if she comes.
  2. A name for you – Use your actual name, a nickname, Mama, even Me. Point to her and say her name; point to yourself and say yours. Introduce other humans and animals this way, too.
  3. No – The concept of no as meaning “stop” or “don’t,” and actually obeying it are different. You will need a lot of patience to get both aspects across. When your cat misbehaves, say, “[Name], no!” sharply while immediately interrupting or removing her from her wrongdoing. She will probably want to go back to what she did. Stop her as necessary, repeating, “No!” In time, she will catch on.
  4. Good – Tell your cat she’s good if she licks you or initiates other positive things, and when she purrs. She will associate good with her pleasing you or feeling pleased herself.
  5. Bad – Only when your cat has begun to master good should bad be introduced: “No!Bad [name],” saying bad as witheringly as you can. Continue to use good in positive situations. She will begin to realize it’s her choice whether to be bad or good.
  6. Sit – When your cat sits, say, “Good sit.” Also, try gently pressing her rump down into a sitting position, saying, “Sit.” If she sits and holds the position, say, “Good sit!” Ask her to sit while she is standing. Praise her when she obeys: “Good sit.”
  7. Food – When you feed your cat, hold up the can/package and say, “Food!” As she eats, say, “Good food.” Say, “Food!” to call her to eat.
  8. Bedtime – When you go to bed, announce, “[Your name] bedtime.” Eventually, hearing “Bedtime!” may bring your pet running ahead of you to bed!
  9. Please and 10. Thank you – Don’t laugh! These serve a purpose: Use please to signal a request. When she obeys, say thank you, indicating she has accomplished your desire.

Cat Carrier

Many pet owners do not need a cat carrier most of the time, but you find that you do need one from time to time.

For instance, cat owner will require a carrier when:

  • Routine checkup and vaccination at the vet
  • Occasional travel outdoor. For example, bringing you kitty to a nearby park
  • In case of an emergency for unexpected medical situations
  • Occurrence of natural disaster, such as fire or earthquake that require you to evacuate your home

A sturdy cat carrier is an essential piece of equipment for the cat owner. You’ll need it to take Kitty to the vet, when you travel, and when you move. Cats should never be allowed to roam free in a car; they tend to like to curl up on the dashboard or under your feet, making for dan­gerous driving conditions.

3 basic types of carriers are available on the market, these includes cardboard, soft or hard carrier. Your best bet is a carrier constructed of high-impact plastic. Plastic carriers feature a hinged door and are very easy to clean, unlike the other types. The small openings along the sides allow for air circulation while providing enough shelter and privacy that your cat will feel secure while you move him. Place a washable blanket, towel, or carrier pad in the bottom of the carrier for your cat’s comfort. Cat feels more secure in smaller area so bigger carrier does not mean better in this case.

You will need to get your cat to be used to the carrier so that having to go in it won’t be a traumatic experience, especially important in an emergency when time is of the essence. But accept that even the best-trained cat will be reluctant to enter the new carrier at first.. One way to introduce your kitty to a new carrier is to leave it in the middle of the room, or other place where it’s easy for her to get into. Try throwing a couple of healthy treats inside. Your goal is to get your cat to explore the carrier and become familiar and comfortable with it. Ideally, your cat’s experience with her cat carrier will be a pleasant one. Some cats become so accustomed to their little enclosure that they sleep in it or use it during their playtime.

For young kittens you are likely to have to do this yourself. First, set the carrier on one end in another room, with the opening facing up. Pick up the kitten by the scruff of his neck with one hand and support his bottom and hind legs with the other. Quickly but gently lower him into the carrier and close and latch the door, being careful not to close it on a paw, tail or ear.

Essential Playtime For Cats

Obesity and behavioral problems are much more common in indoor-only versus indoor-outdoor cats, probably in large part because of inactivity and boredom. So play is essential to any cat’s health and sanity. Toys that stimulate the prey drive will get cats chasing, stalking, pouncing, and generally burning off energy and steam. A bored cat will find ways to “keep busy,” and those activities generally result in a frustrated owner. If you’ve ever returned home to find that your cat used the dining room table to sharpen his claws, or decided the heirloom grandfather clock was more interesting than his scratching post, then you understand that cats need quality exercise to stay out of trouble.

Besides the “good kitty” factor, exercise will improve your cat’s circulation, stimulate vital organs, aid digestion, and eliminate harmful toxins from the body. Your cat will feel mentally stimulated and physically satisfied after a quality play session.

One of the most effective ways to provide the mental and physical stimulation that indoor cats need is to schedule daily, individual play sessions with them. Aim to exercise your cat for ten minutes, four times each day. House cats especially require dedicated playtime because they don’t burn calories and stimulate their feline instincts by roaming outdoors. It’s your job to stoke their curiosity and challenge them with games. A great time to exercise your cat is before mealtime. This way, you cater to your cat’s natural cycle: hunt, kill, eat, groom, sleep. Playtime is your cat’s modern-day hunt-and-kill activity.

Not sure where to start? Begin by stocking your kitty’s toy chest with safe, stimulating options. Cats love things that dangle, bounce, and move-these actions require chasing and pouncing, which are cats’ natural instincts. Use a remote-controlled mouse or even Ping-Pong balls and wads of crumpled paper are a thrill.

Nobody enjoys playing a game if they never get a chance to win. If you wave the toy all over and keep it out of the cat’s reach, it just leads to frustration. Playtime needs to be physically AND mentally rewarding. If your cat chases, pounces, stalks, leaps and attacks the toy but never gets to capture it because you’ve kept it out of her reach, it just becomes a physically exhausting exercise in frustration. The key is also you’re involved in the play.