The Meowing Sounds Of A Cat

Cats possess the widest range of vocalizations of any domestic pet next to birds. The meowing of a cat is almost exclusively used to communicate with humans and known to be the most heard cat sound. During kittenhood, mew (shorten version) is uttered by kittens in need of their mother. This juvenile vocalization fades away as cats mature into adulthood. Older cats often meow more because of failing senses or due to anxiety over not being as nimble as before.

The frequency of meowing is an indicator of a cat’s frame of mind. An insistent leg weaves, rapid-fire meows means she is excited to share something with you or requesting your attention to her. A longer, more plaintive meowing can indicate worry, annoyance, or objection to something. In general cats’ communication, meow usually mean “pay attention to me” and are employed when your cat wants something, either attention or food. It can also simply means “hello”.

Other common cats sounds are:

Chattering is a rapid clacking of the teeth sometimes heard when a cat is ready to pounce on prey. This sound is thought to be an indicator of a cat’s predatory excitement and of her stress at not being able to get to the prize.

Hissing is a defensive sound, usually accompanied by laid-back ears and sometimes by hair standing on end. Hissing depends very much upon the individual cat’s perception and level of comfort. Friendly felines hiss at each other to let them know something has made them unhappy.

Growling sometimes accompanies hissing, and is a sign of displeasure. It is often an indicative of fear, anger or territorial threat. Domestic cat’s growling are of a higher pitch and can start or end with a yowl.

Yowling (low-pitched) is a sign of discomfort or frustration. Cats who does not like to travel when put in her carrier can uttered low-pitched yowling sound.

Caterwauling is loud yowling  uttered by females in heat when calling out to prospective mates.

Screaming sound is often associated with the pain of the female cat experienced during the mating process. Cats in the midst of a fight may also scream.

Why Do Cats Purr?

Cats ability to purr is one of the most distinctive features. It is the most common sound but also one of the most puzzling. The question why cat purr has been contemplated for centuries and there are several theories derived.

The triggering mechanism of the purring is speculative. Some say the lulling noise is caused by the cats blood vessels, while others point to bone vibration.  Researchers believe purring is caused when a cat’s brain sends signals to muscles in the larynx that cause the glottis to vibrate. Combined with the steady inhalation and exhalation of air as the cat breathes, passing air causes vibrations that result in the purring sound. The purring sounds is continuous because it happens when cats are inhaling and exhaling.

Domestic cats purr at a frequency of 20 to 30 vibrations per second. Purring of some cats can be as loud as hearing it across the room. While others are so quiet that the cat purring can only be felt by the vibration. Cats often purr as a sign of contentment. For example, when being petted or as result of becoming relaxed. Many people do not realize that cats also might purr when nervous, when distressed or in pain. This is common for mother cat to purr during labour. Some research suggest purring can trigger a cat’s brain to release a hormone which helps it in relaxing and acts as a pain reliever.

There is speculation that the vibration frequency of a cat’s purring stimulates muscles and bones and may promote healing in both cats and humans. Results of just stroking a cat has been shown to lower blood pressure and stress. The sound of the cat’s purring near us usually makes us feel more relaxed since we associate purring with contentment. We begin stroking the purring cat and that exchange is very comforting.

Adopting An Adult Cat

Adopting an adult cat can be a very rewarding experience. Kittens need lots of attention to keep them stimulated and out of trouble. An adult cat is usually much easier on an owner who does not have the time or energy to entertain a kitten. A little preparation and extra patience on your part can make his transition as stress-free as it can be.

Adult cats have established their personality. It is important to pair you with cats best fitting your own personality and lifestyle. The shelter staff will be able to give you a good idea of the cat’s temperament. Spend some time alone with the cat you want to bring home to observe if the personality is a good fit for you.

Bringing home an adult cat is much like introducing a new kitten to your home.  A kitten may behave a certain way in its youth and changes significantly as it grows up. As compared, an adult cat’s temperament and personality will be more consistent. Adult cats are usually a better choice for families with small children. Kittens often play rough and are constantly underfoot. Sadly older cats often get overlooked. Most people who adopt tends to gravitate toward the adorable kittens.

There are a few things to be aware of when introducing an adult cat to your home. Adult cats typically take longer than kittens to adjust to new people and surroundings. This is especially true for cats that came from a shelter may have been extremely stressful and frightening. It may need a week or longer to feel secure. Set pace for your interaction to let the cat knows you are a caring person who can be trusted. Be patient and give him affection and praise. Once the cat adjust to the new home where they can feel safe and secure again, they will offer years of faithful companionship.

 

Aggression Between Housemate Cats

Aggression between housemate cats comes in several forms, with associated causes. As cat owners, it behooves us when our cat pounces on his feline housemate or sibling, who counters with a paw in the face. Stalking, chasing, and sometimes roughhousing are common in multi-cat household. We need to fully understand these kinds of aggressive behavior so that we can take appropriate steps when needed.

Knowing the forms of aggression between cats, whether your cats are on guard or only playing by tuning into these behavioral clues.

Healthy play: Stalking, chasing, and pouncing are normal play. Such play-fighting usually starts at an early age with siblings. This starts with one kitten stalking the other, then pounce his unsuspecting prey. This turns around with trade off roles, with the victim chasing his former predator. The chase game is often a favorite in multi cat homes, including cats of all ages.  Play is generally quiet, though cats may hiss or make meowing sounds. Play-fighting is usually harmless fun, and intervention is only necessary when one cat is injure by accidental scratches or nips.

Foul play: Identifying by the sound and look of their interaction. You’ll hear wailing and howling, and one cat will act as a dominant force, intimidating the other. Each cat preface his attack with much posturing: back raised, ears laid back. They will not trade pounces or take turns chasing one another. Unlike healthy play-fighting is characterized by each cat’s offensive or defensive roles. After play, cats will act as friends, even curling up together for a nap. Fighting cats walk separate ways, one scared of the other.

If you must break up a cat fight, keep your hands away from the action. Never try to pick up a cat who is still in attack mode. Splash a glass of water directly on the aggressor’s face. Push a broom between the two cats to separate them. If cats are not yet making contact and are in the frozen position, hold a newspaper in front of them to block their view of each other. Ideally, the frightened cat will slink away and the aggressor will become calm enough for you to pick up and secure.

Keeping Cats Off The Computer

Cat owners often realize their cat seem to be fascinated with computers. Cats like two things, warmth and security.  It is cat’s nature to have the tendency to jump up on your keyboard while you are working to get closer to you. Your computer poses risks for her as cats can wreak havoc with electronic harming herself. To avoid risk of the cat getting entangled with electric cord and chargers,  it is important that you keep your cat off your computer to avoid harming herself.

Some cats likes to sleep atop your computer or printer. Overheating can damage electronics. Cat’s fur tends to ends up inside your computer or your keyboard. If it builds up, it can present a safety hazard as with any build-up of dust and fluff.  Therefore, it is vital that the ventilation areas of your computer be kept unblocked and free of fur. While it is cute when a cat chases something on a computer screen or lies across a keyboard, allowing them to keep doing this cements the habit and encourages them to do it again. Be tough and remove your cat as soon as the activity starts, and keep doing it until she gets the point.

Here are some of the simplest ways to keep your cats off your computer:

• Provide a computer desk with slide out elements that can be stowed when they are not in use
• Buy plastic covers for your screen, printer, and keyboard for when not in use
• Conceal wires and cables by blocking access to them or by enclosing them in tubing specially made for them. Be sure to keep the cords out of sight and definitely not dangling or jiggling!
• Place a box near your keyboard that is the right size for the cat to sit in. If possible, place it on something warm.
• Provide cat toys to keep your pet’s attention away from cords and switches

Choosing The Correct Litter Box

Litter boxes come in various shapes and configurations, it is important to match the size of the box to the size of your cat. Cat owners often easy to get influenced by a desire to choose a litter box based on fanciness. Before committing to a fancy box, you need to ensure it is the right box for your cat will use regularly.  Place the new box near the old one, and let your cat take his time to make the transition.

Plastic pan:

The pan-style litter boxes is the most popular of all. They comes in different sizes and depths. Shallow litter boxes are useful for older cats who may have trouble climbing into and out of standard litter boxes. These simple litter boxes are the easiest to clean and you can use any type of litter with them. Adult cats sometimes get quite enthusiastic with their bathroom routines and may kick litter out of the box and on to the floor. This litter box is fine if you don’t mind sweeping up the floor periodically.

Sifting litter box:

This sifting litter boxes consists of two stacking litter boxes and a sifting insert. The sifting insert allows the separation of waste from clean litter. This insert keeps the clumps and allowing the clean litter to flow back into the box. You place one litter box inside the other and put the sifting insert in the top box.

Covered litter box:

Covered litter boxes are ideal for keeping the mess of scattered litter over your floor contained. This box features a rigid cover that attaches securely to the base litter box, with an opening for your cat to enter and exit. The covered litter boxes traps odours inside and will need to be cleaned more often than an open one. Covered litter boxes provide privacy for your cat. Larger cats may find these covered litter boxes constricting.

Decorative litter box:

These litter boxes are disguised as furniture. Some concealers are a stylish and ingenious way to hide your cat’s unsightly litter box. Usually, these concealer use a standard plastic litter box inside the chamber.  These cat litter boxes concealers can help to confine the litter mess and the odor.

Self-cleaning litter box:

Self-cleaning litter boxes are a great choice for cat owners who have limited time to clean litter boxes. This litter box is electrically powered, and most use scoopable litter. There are many different types of self-cleaning litter boxes available. These different self-cleaning boxes do have common similarities. They all come equipped with a motion sensor which is able to detects when the cat has left the box, and the cleaning machinery goes into action and scoop out cat pee and poop into a waste receptacle.

Toys Are Necessity For Developing Kitten

Toys are necessity for developing kitten minds. Play gives them an outlet for their energy, mental and physical stimulation. Developing kitten show at least some interest in predatory behavior during playtime. They love to stalk, chase, attack and investigate toys. These behaviours in some ways practicing it. Many cats who were not taught to hunt by their mothers will figure it out on their own. It is safest to supervise your kitten when she is playing with any toy. Even toys designed for your little pet to enjoy on her own can come off of in bits.  Often times, these things  get swallowed with their mouth can cause nasty problems.

You do not need to invest in a cache of expensive fancy cat toy. Kitten will often wander into your cupboard and find a plastic cap, batting at your newspaper than the expensive toy you’ve just presented to her. House cats need to stay busy with play, and we must make sure that the toys we offer are a safe and tempting alternative to household hazards. Yarn, ribbon, and rubber bands are potentially deadly when swallowed.

• Look for nontoxic labels on toys so you can make sure the materials, if ingested, will not harm your kitten.
• Ensure trim and decorations are securely fastened to toys. Easily tear off glued-on “parts”may be chew off and swallowed
• Steer clear of toys with small pieces or parts that can become dislodged during play

No matter how much your kitten enjoys a certain toy, her interest in it may wane if she gets to play with it too often and over too long a period of time. Let her play with it for about a week and then hide it away. Keep a collection of  safe toys to your kitty’s play stash. These can come from household items like plastic shower curtain rings, newspapers, plastic caps. Allow your cat to play in a cardboard box.

Cats usually appreciate softer fluffy toys. Other than that your kitten will likely delight in any toy that gets her attention, helps her to exercise and helps her development. Additionally, check entries in this blog for safe cat toys you can make.

Maintaining A Multi-Cat Household

Multi-cat households can work well under the right circumstances.  A harmonious multi-cat household can also run into fair share of upsets at times. Cat siblings that have been brought up together can develop strong bonds and become best pals. Even so they still disagree sometimes aggressively. Then there are cat sibs that cannot be in the same room without hissing or instigating a fight.

In a multi-cat household, you need enough space to give each of your cats a place to call home. This means having plenty of snuggle spots, window perches, hideaways, and other in-demand cat locations so no one has to fight over who gets comfortable place to nap and view the outside world. Play the role of  a mother cat in charge of this big, happy cat family. Set some ground rules and take time to properly introduce new cats to the house. Watch for bullying, and know when to intervene if cat play turns into foul play.

There are few important factors that influence success for maintaining a sane household.

1. Cats are territorial creatures. Some are clearly more territorial than others, so the time required for the introduction process varies greatly depending on the cats involved. A two-week introduction process with gradual, supervised “meetings” between new cat and the in-house crew eases stress for everyone.
2. Accommodate cats’ need for space, privacy, and resources (litter, food, water).  Set two food bowls in the kitty eating area, and contain the dominant cat for a short time during mealtime if he scares away timid cats.
3. Provide two (or more) litter boxes. A dominant cat may leave his waste uncovered to mark his territory. Some cats demand private litter boxes. Observe behavior and set up litter stations to accommodate everyone.
4. Create territories with hideouts, cubbies. Cats need somewhere safe to rest, free from danger and interference, preferably off the ground.

Managing Your Cat Shedding Dandruff

If your cat is shedding dandruff, the cause may simply be dry skin. The lower back and base of a cat’s tail are subject to dry skin. It is usually most commonly found on the face and along the back and the base of the tail but any part of the body can be affected. Dandruff can be hard to see on lighter coloured cats. A cat comb or brush can also help you diagnose dandruff if your cat has thicker fur. Cat dandruff can be caused by a variety of factors both medical and environmental. Common triggers are:

• Skin loses mois­ture during dry winter months. Dry skin gets worst in certain climates where there is a lack of moisture in the air.
• If your cat is on a low-fat diet, skin can flake from lack of oils and fats in the skin.
• An older or obese cat may have difficulty grooming himself and will develop greasy, flaky skin.
• During a bath, always rinse shampoo out of your cat’s coat completely until suds disappear. Use a moisturizing shampoo and follow with a conditioner.
• If bathwater is too hot, dry skin is also likely to develop, your cat’s skin responds the same way yours does after a long, hot soak.
• Parasites can also be a cause of dandruff. Allergic skin reactions due to fleas and other parasites will also cause dandruff to become more prominent in your cat.

Low-end cat food doesn’t have the nutritional value your cat needs to maintain a healthy coat. Make sure the food has essential fatty acids, like Omega-3. Read the labels and know what to look for. Proteins and vitamins B and E nourish the skin and fur. Give your cat a small amount of wet food every day to keep his coat glossy and his skin moisturized.

If dandruff is persistent, consult your vet. Dry skin may be a sign of a more serious problem, such as mange, flea allergy, ringworm, or seborrhea. Heavy dandruff can also signal hyperthyroidism or diabetes.

Cat Urine Odours

Cat urine odours are notoriously difficult to remove. Male cats contains hormones which make the urine smell much stronger than that of females or neutered males. These hormones serve a purpose, to enable the male cat to mark his territory.  Male cats exhibit this behaviour to attracting females and deterring any possible competing males.

Cat urine smells the moment after she urinates or sprays. The longer that urine sits, the worse the stench becomes. The main odor-causing culprits, urea. Bacteria have the ability to hydrolyze the urea, which releases ammonia. It is also part of why cat pee glows under a black light. Most cleaning products easily take care of urea , but detergents and soaps will not remove uric acid. Uric acid crystallizes and bonds to porous surfaces, such as carpet, fibres, which makes is very difficult to remove. Often, we think that urine is gone once they dry up and crystallised. The truth is cat’s sensitive noses can smell the uric acid and will return to the same spot to urinate.

On a humid day, the odour is released when the crystals absorb surrounding moisture. To remove uric acid, use a solution specifically formulated to remove cat urine odours. Using an enzyme cleaner breaks up the crystals in the uric acid to permanently remove the smell.

Most enzymatic cleaners require several applications to fully remove uric acid, especially if the stain is old. While enzyme cleaners come in a spray bottle, spraying a light coat over the stain would not do much. For best results, remove the sprayer and douse the spot liberally. Allow the enzyme cleaner to air dry, letting the cleaner sit for 10 to 15 minutes. The drying time break down the uric acid salts, allowing the resulting gases to evaporate. After which  blot up as much of it as possible with a clean cloth. Remember not to use ammonia or an ammonia-based product to try to remove cat urine. Cat urine contains ammonia, cleaning urine with an ammonia product will just encourage your cat to return to the area.